TECHNIQUES
MARBLING
This is the effect of using paint to make a surface
look like marble. This painted finish is what is referred
to as a faux finish (faux is French for false or fake).
It may also be referred to as trompe l'oeil (French
for "deceives the eye").
Marbling should not be confused with marbalising which is the technique of
floating paint on water and immersing the substrate (the surface to be coated)
in the water, coating the substrate as it is removed.
PLANNING
In order to obtain the most realistic finish, keep
in mind the limitations of the material being copied.
For example, if a large wall is to be marbled, it would
be advisable to break up the surface into sections
simulating sheets of marble rather than attempting
to make the wall look like one whole piece. This can
easily be done by using tape to mask off each section
at a time. Taking this one step further, a shadow can
be added along the masked line to give a faux bevelled
edge to the "slab" of marble.
When marbling a flat surface such as a table, marbling
the edges and following through with the pattern of
the veins will help to create a much more realistic
finish.
PREPARATION
Faux marble will look more realistic if the surface
to which it is to be applied is smooth. It should be
applied free of brushstrokes. The basecoat to be used
should be a water-based, flat to semi-gloss in sheen.
Matisse Background Colors have been designed to level
out (reducing brushstrokes) and opaque for good coverage.
For more detailed information on surface preparation,
see Surface Preparation.
The colors to be used will depend on the type of
marble that is being imitated.
SCUMBLE GLAZE/MARBLING GEL
There are many different ways to marble; however,
they all vary around one main ingredient. The main
ingredient used in marbling and many other painted
finishes is known by several different names: scumble,
scumble glaze, glazing medium etc. In the range of
Matisse Mediums, it is known as MM16
Faux Finish & Marbling Gel.
The main characteristic of this medium is slow drying
to allow time to work the paint. It helps to extend
the paint, making it more transparent thus showing
the undercoat. It allows the paint to hold the marks
made by varying tools that are used for different finishes.
It retards the ability of the different colors to
intermix which will keep the colors separate (this
is one of the techniques employed in marbling).
METHOD
In this example, the colors used will be those described
below for white marble.
Step 1:
Leave the base coat to dry.
Step 2: Pour approx 3 tablespoons of MM16
Faux Finish & Marbling Gel into a dish or
palette; add to this approx 2cm of Matisse
Flow Formula titanium white squeezed out of a
tube.
Step 3:
Do not mix these in the tray. Simply dip a damp sea
sponge into this and allow the paint and gel to mix
on the sponge as it is patted onto the project. Cover
no more than approx 30cm x 30cm as the area may dry
before the next step is reached.
Step 4:
While step 3 is still wet, add approx. 0.5cm of both
Matisse Flow Formula mars black and paynes grey to approx
3-4 tablespoons of marbling gel. Once again, do not
mix the paint and gel but rather drag a feather,
a damp Chinese calligraphy brush or even a fine liner
brush through the gel and a small amount of the paint.
Holding the brush or feather at the very end, draw
in some veins. Study some marble to see which way the
veins go. It is fairly safe to assume they do not cross
like an x, they do not have a hub in the middle like
a spider's web, they are not all parallel and evenly
spaced apart. They are staggered in appearance like
a line made up of a whole lot of shorter straight lines
rather than curves.
Step 5:
Once the veins have been put on and whilst both step
3 and 4 are drying (but still wet), use a very soft
mop brush or badger hair brush to soften and blend
the veins into the background (step 3).
This is achieved by brushing ever so lightly over
the surface with the brush ensuring the brush remains
dry and free of paint. Where areas of the paint are
quite wet, when stippling with the brush (hitting the
surface in a perpendicular motion) to blend the veins,
be careful the brush remains dry.
This softening process should give variations of blending
with veins where the gel and white paint are in various
thicknesses. This should result in differences in tone
(white and veins) and color (between mars black and
paynes grey).
Step 6:
Leave to dry.
Step 7:
Varnish with a high gloss varnish (such as MM7
Polymer Gloss Varnish and Gloss Medium or MM14
Gloss Varnish (turps-based)).
COLORS
One of the main considerations when marbling is color.
Listed below are some suggestions of colors to be
used for various types of marble. This is by no means
an exhaustive list; however, with practice and experimentation,
one should be capable of copying any type of marble
desired.
CARRARA OR WHITE MARBLE |
 |
Basecoat: |
Matisse Background white |
Sponge coat: |
MM16 Faux Finish & Marbling Gel mixed
with Matisse Flow Formula titanium white. |
Veins: |
Matisse Flow Formula mars black and paynes grey. |
GREEN MARBLE
|
 |
Basecoat:
|
Matisse Background
folk black
|
Sponge
coat:
|
MM16 Faux Finish & Marbling
Gel and Matisse Flow Formula chromium green oxide,
add a very small amount of Matisse Flow Formula
hookers green and phthalo green.
|
Veins:
|
Matisse Flow Formula titanium
white.
|
SIENNA MARBLE
|
 |
Basecoat:
|
Matisse Background
white
|
Sponge
coat:
|
MM16 Faux Finish & Marbling
Gel mixed with Matisse Flow Formula titanium
white.
|
Veins:
|
Matisse Flow Formula mars black
and paynes grey.
|
Top sponge
coat: |
MM16 Faux Finish & Marbling
Gel and Matisse Flow Formula Australian sienna.
Apply this coat with the sea sponge over most
of the surface, leaving some areas white (the
white
showing through). As this coat is drying, soften
and blend some of the harder edges and the areas
that show obvious sponge marks. |
FINISHING OFF
As the vast majority of marble that we see is highly
polished, two or more coats of a high gloss varnish
is recommended to finish off the work. MM7
Polymer Gloss Varnish diluted two parts to one
part water would be recommended for indoor use. For
outdoor use, an additional two coats of undiluted MM14
Final Varnish Gloss Finish (turps-based) would
be recommended. |